A tradition is born
January 5th, 2012 by Jim JustFor New Year’s Eve, a small group of neighbors have a tradition of imposing on the hospitality of a couple who live enough nearby that driving is not an obstacle on this most celebratory of all the holidays. The mantle of “chef” has somehow settled on my shoulders for this event. This year, I was asked to prepare the “bean thing” that served for dinner last year.
I can’t remember what I had for dinner last night, much less last year. What in the world could that “bean thing” have been? I’m thinking, must have been some version of cassoulet. Let’s take inventory: in the freezer, ham hocks, side of pork, sausages from Michael, goose stock and duck stock. In the refrigerator, leftover goose from Christmas dinner, plus more meat picked from the bones boiled for stock. Goose fat and duck fat. In the cellar, onions and garlic, and a jar of canned tomatoes from the garden. All we need are a couple of pounds of cannellini beans and we’re good to go.
New Year’s Cassoulet
Serves 12 – 16
2 lb. canellini beans
8 T duck or goose fat
1 head of garlic, peeled and smashed
2 large onions, chopped
2 large carrots, chopped
2 ham hocks
2 lb. side of pork, cut into 1?cubes
1 bouquet garni (4 sprigs savory, 4 sprigs thyme, 4 sprigs parsley, 4 sprigs celery greens, 3 bay leaves)
1 quart jar puréed tomatoes
1 cup white wine
2½ quarts goose or duck broth (chicken stock will do in a pinch)
4 confit duck legs (we used goose, both left over from Christmas dinner and picked from the carcass after being boiled for stock)
4 lb. pork sausages (we used 4 garlic sausages and 4 jalapeño sausages from the Pepper Tree)
2 cups bread crumbsDay 1
Put beans in a large bowl or other container, add water until water covers beans with 2 or three inches to spare, and soak overnight.
Day 2
1. Heat 4 T duck or goose fat in a large braising pan. Add the pork cubes and brown on all sides; remove and set aside. Brown the sausages and set aside, then brown the ham hocks and set aside. Toss the onions and carrots into the pan and sauté until the onions are softened and translucent. Splash in the wine, add the broth, then all of the browned meats. Add the bouquet garni. Bring to the boil, the simmer, covered, for 1½ hours until the meats are tender.
2. When done, pour everything in the braising pan through a colander, catching the stock in another pot. Remove and discard the bouquet garni. Pick out the meats with a pair of tongs and set aside to cool a bit. Run the other solids caught in the colander (onions, carrots, garlic) through a blender until they form a paste; add paste to pot with broth and mix. When cool enough, trim excess fat off pork chunks. Trim meat of ham hocks and discard everything else (save the pork fat and all of the other bits from the ham hocks except the bone for the dog). Cut sausages into enough pieces that you have at least one piece of each kind of sausage per person.
3. Drain beans. Put beans in a large pot, cover with water, bring to boil, and simmer for ten minutes. Drain and rinse.
4. Return beans to pot. Add stock, making sure beans are well covered. Bring to boil and simmer for 1½- 2 hours until beans are just tender.
5. When beans are done, spread ½ of beans on bottom of braising pan. Spread meats (pork, ham, sausages, and duck or goose) on top of beans. Cover with remainder of beans. Cover and keep in refrigerator.
Day 3: serving day
1. Heat oven to 300?. Drizzle cassoulet with duck or goose fat. Add enough additional broth to just cover the beans and bake, uncovered, for 3 hours.
2. Remove cassoulet from oven. Sprinkle with bread crumbs. Drizzle with remaining fat.
We then took the cassoulet with us to our friends’ house to finish:
3. Bake the cassoulet at 275° for 1 hour longer, until it is richly browned on the surface. Let rest for at least 20 minutes before serving.
Et voilà.
I think I prefer the cassoulet without the bread crumbs: instead, finish it off by baking for one hour at 325°. You still end up with a nice crusty surface.
This cassoulet was so tasty our New Year’s Eve hosts invited themselves for leftovers the next day. For me, the best is yet to come: after all the meaty bits have been picked over, the beans make for the best damn burrito that has ever passed a pair of lips.
Oh, turns out cassoulet wasn’t the requested “bean thing” after all. Consensus was, last year’s dinner was soupier, and served in a pot rather than a flat braising pan. By acclaim, a new tradition is born.
Can an event be called “celebratory” if everyone is home in bed by 10:00? We never even got around to opening the champagne.
Heartwarming news: the first lambs of the season were born today, January 5.
Twins, a boy (gray) and a girl (black), to a first-time momma, both strong and healthy. It’s a good day to be born, sunny and warm. Yesterday’s high was 63°, downright balmy for January. Today looks to be an encore.









