In Bolinas, TDR means transferable water meter
April 22nd, 2010 by Jim JustIf you want to build a house in Bolinas, you first have to buy a water meter – at auction. The last time one came up for bid was in 2005. It went to a stonemason, for $310,000. Now there’s something to think about here in Oregon, where we’re just beginning to tinker with the idea of transferable development rights.
Bolinas is a tiny town at the southern tip of Point Reyes in Marin County just 20 miles north of San Francisco, across the Gold Gate Bridge and either over or around Mount Tamalpias. Its water source is a tiny dam thrown across a narrow creek known as Arroyo Hondo, delivered to town by a pipe described as “no wider than a coffee mug”.
In 1971, the Bolinas Community Public Utility District (CPUD) declared a Water Shortage Emergency Condition and enacted a moratorium on new connections to the municipal water supply. CPUD still warns:
That moratorium is still in effect and should be taken into consideration when contemplating the purchase of undeveloped real estate.
The Pacific Legal Foundation filed legal challenges to the moratorium and the suit dragged on for years, costing the town’s 1,500 residents almost $2 million to defend – but the water shortage in Bolinas is no joke. In January 2009, due to the perilous status of the town’s water supply resulting from two previous years of low rainfall and historic low rainfall in the early 2008-09 winter season, EPUD declared a prolonged drought condition in the district; issued a water supply alert; and enacted immediate, mandatory conservation measures. All customers were required to limit their consumption to no more than 150 gallons (or 20 cubic feet) per service connection per day (average daily household water use in the U.S. is 350 gallons).
Despite the town’s water supply difficulties, some people still insist on blaming the moratorium on anti-development forces – which certainly existed, as evidenced by the history of Bolinas Border Patrol. The Bolinas Border Patrol was famous for taking down signs pointing to the town, until the state finally relented and stopped putting up new ones. The New York Times article says now there’s this sign:
Even now, a sign that should say “Entering Bolinas” says, “Entering a socially acknowledged nature-loving town.”
Heck, there’s always been a sign at the entrance to town, just past the sign advertising the “B & M Septic Service”. It’s just without a sign pointing the way to Bolinas at the turn-off from the two-lane Highway 1 that winds its way along the coast, outsiders will never get to the edge of town.
Suspected members of the Bolinas Border Patrol would congregate at Smiley’s Schooner Saloon and Hotel, perched on the edge of Bolinas Lagoon. There, anybody could buy and wear a “Bolinas Border Patrol” tee shirt. Smiley’s was a haven after a morning of walking mist nets and weighing, measuring, and banding birds at the Point Reyes Bird Observatory (the Birdo, we fondly called it). You could down a beer and a dollar dog with the locals. From the bar, you could watch the local long hairs in tie dyes and sandals meandering up and down the street, going in and out of the co-op (named the People’s Store – what else, in Bolinas?), the bakery, the library. Of course, everything was right across the street, in Bolinas.
The BirdO was housed just up the mesa in the old buildings of the Palomarin Ranch, run by the Church of the Golden Rule, refuge to draft dodgers during the dark days of World War II. Allergic to female proximity following the explosive dénouement of an ill-fated second marriage, I bunked in my van rather than share a dorm room with a gaggle of youthful postgrads.
Why is EPUD still cautioning the unwary about “undeveloped real estate”? Look no farther than the Bolinas “Gridded Mesa”. This is an area of about 300 acres on a bluff overlooking Bolinas Bay and the Pacific Ocean. The area was subdivided in 1927 into 5,336 20? x 100? lots – lots of less than 1/20 of an acre – in a grid pattern imposed over a former dairy farm without regard to drainage patterns, slope, bluff erosion, or any other natural features. The lots were sold as part of a subscription promotion by the San Francisco Bulletin. The streets on the gridded mesa were never accepted by the county, and unless maintained by adjoining property owners, many are often impassible. Some have eroded into the sea and some have been abandoned, leaving lots with no public access. Only a few streets are now paved and maintained by the county. The entire area is served by on-site septic systems.
What a freakin’ planning nightmare. No wonder the Bolinas Border Patrol rose up to keep people out. No place in America was ever more in need of a building moratorium.
Now, the Bolinas Border Patrol is no more – at least not in name. The connotations of “border patrol” have become too ugly for counterculture types to stomach.
The shadowy rebel organization that tore down Bolinas road signs, misdirected tourists and confused the media for more than three decades took a politically correct step last month. The Bolinas Border Patrol members, whoever they are, will henceforth refer to themselves as “Bolinas Community,” so as to stop potentially offending Latinos.
The transition was announced in the Jan. 20 issue of the Bolinas Hearsay News by Bolinas mutineer and t-shirt designer, StuArt, who left ten phone messages unreturned and refused an interview on the top-secret matter. In his Hearsay story, StuArt credited a “no-bullshit” woman called Hawk with highlighting the unfortunate association between the Bolinas Border Patrol and the “brutal” United States Border Patrol.
“Border Patrol is way too ‘fascist police state’ for me,” StuArt wrote, agreeing with Hawk that the name had to change. “I thought about the Minutemen in Arizona, armed to the teeth, patrolling the U.S. border in SUVs.”
So while the logo remains a bespectacled quail (changed from a black widow spider in 1985), the name on all t-shirts, flyers and bumper stickers will be changed to the less controversial and arguably less virile title, “Bolinas Community.”
In the heyday of the Bolinas Border Patrol, members sawed, plowed and otherwise vandalized some 30 signs indicating the road to Bolinas. It was all part of a backfiring effort to keep the coastal hamlet out of public attention, tourist brochures and yuppie developer hands.
The quote above is from an article in The Point Reyes Light – no ordinary small-town newspaper. In 1979, with a circulation of only 2750, it became one of the few weekly newspapers to ever receive a Pulitzer Prize, winning the Pulitzer gold medal for Meritorious Public Service as a result of a series of exposes and editorials about the Synanon cult, infamous for (among other things) booby-trapping the mailbox of lawyer Paul Morantz with a live rattlesnake.
Bolinas, a truly weird and beautiful place. Here’s a map. But please, don’t tell anybody else.

